Ryan Cowie: The Cabinet of Dr Cowie

A collection inspired by German expressionism, femme fatales and witchcraft? Sign me up please. Aberdonian designer Ryan Cowie’s AW 17 collection is a monochromatic dreamscape that pays homage to fantasy villains, feminist rebels and of course The Cabinet of Dr Caligari.  Characterised by over-sized exaggerated silhouettes contrasted by skin tight sheer mesh, The Cabinet of Dr Cowie hits all the marks.

ryan cowie jumper

ryan cowie ruffles ryan cowie fur ryan cowie patches ryan cowie bodysuit His latest collection may as well be a play book of things I enjoy – from it’s restricted use of colour to it’s heavy use of texture. Mesh corsets, nylon ruffles and asymetrical high gloss PVC is paired with cocooning sweaters, punk inspired patchwork and theatrical Cruella-esque faux fur coats.  Cowie has created a hyper feminine collection which is a heady mix of power, cinema and sexuality.

Designed as a tribute to powerful women, Cowie wanted to explore ideas of dark sticky trauma and the messy feelings that come with it. Highly emotive and aggressive, it’s an unflinching look at how women have been persecuted through history. Whether that’s witches or feminists or women embracing their sexuality, Cowie’s cabinet is often romantic, definitely sexy and overtly defiant.  Highlights for me are the exaggerated sweater, slogan stockings, striped bodysuit and the voyeuristic a-symmetrical PVC corset with squint lacing. Oh and the WITCH opera gloves? Pretty great too.

Ryan Cowie’s AW17 selection is perfectly moody and dramatic and in short I want everything. Sign me up for pre-orders of one of each please.

Photographer: Erica Von Stein

Model: Camille Astrid


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