It’s been a long time coming – Obscure Couture’s new SS12 collection “Us Vs Them” is finally here. Inspired by bucky swilling, street fighting gang culture – the new collection is a mix of bright tartan prints, metallic leathers and hand-painted silk. While still in keeping with a very glam punk aesthetic gang culture couldn’t be further from their previous Victoriana inspired “Flesh and Bone.” Still their is something gloriously British and trashy (in the best way) about the designs – and while not for the faint hearted (the blood maxi with the leather bustier is bringing all sorts of Carrie flashbacks for me over hear) that is part of their charm. The clothes are fun and bright and can go from being street wear to more elegant, but on their terms. It’s a mixture of bows and bat wings and slashed tops covered in paint. The knit wear is amazing- personal favourite is the cropped hot pink “Fuck You” jumper. The tongue is planted firmly in the cheek with this collection and it’s brilliant, all the pieces owing their names to gangs and gang culture. It’s all pinks and reds (one of my fave colour combos) yellows and whites and greens and it’s just so far off from everything else that it’s just like a big old breath of fresh air. Yes I want a pair of metallic red trousers with oversized buttons. Yes I know I’d be lucky to get my arm in them…but it’s one of those things on the wishlist where I’ve stopped myself from only buying basics and spend it ALL on metallics and sequined shoes.The girls hard at work in le studio, bag of fabric samples. McCoys – a work room staple.
I’d popped in to the studios a few times on the run up to fashion week -hot pink walls adorned with daft poems, caricatures, inspo and to do lists….and it was amazing. You’d come down one day and they’d have these giant crazy buttons for the worlds tiniest and shiniest trousers…or hand painted silk drying out front. Even on a social call there was never a time I came down for a vino and a natter that these girls weren’t answering emails, pattern cutting, splattering t-shirts, customising shoes or thinking of names for new pieces….Death Valley Brawlgown? DEFO A FAVOURITE. So congratulations to two of the hardest workers and partiers I’ve had the pleasure to meet – the new collection is astounding and you can creep it for yourselves here – here be some of my highlights.
“Blood” – Red hand painted silk and leather maxi, “Bakassi” – Hand painted silk and leather play suit and “Cyto” Red leather bra top with “Scuttlers” Tartan paper bag trousers with red leather bow belt.
All runway photos by the talented Laura McKinnon